Monthly Archives: December 2018

Modern bottling techniques

So another essay that I was not prepared for. But, like, seriously not prepared for. It’s been crazy busy at work (oh yea, and planning a wedding), so after staring at a blank sheet of paper for a few minutes, I pulled out my notes. Sad face.

Also? I have no examples for any of these…  I am so depressed…

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Describe three techniques that are used in modern (aseptic) bottling of wine. For each example, describe the equipment and methods used, as well as the typical usage, benefits, and drawbacks of each technique. 60 minutes.

After all of the careful work in the vineyard and in the cellar, the bottling line becomes a factor that will either maintain the quality already created or destroy it. The main principles of modern bottling is to maintain the highest levels of hygiene as to not introduce any yeasts or bacteria that will negatively impact the wine trapped in the bottle. There are three major techniques used in modern (aseptic) bottling that use heat treatments and each use a different combination of temperature and time: flash pasteurization, tunnel pasteurization and thermotic bottling. While all wine bottling should be done under hygienic conditions, these bottling techniques are most important for higher-volume wines where large recalls would be disastrous, both financially and for the brand. Much of the equipment unique to these techniques may also be out of reach for the small wineries.

Flash pasteurization sends the finished wine to very high temperature for a very short period of time, typically 75°C for up to 30 seconds (before being brought back down to room temperature quickly). This heating and cooling will effectively kill any viable yeast and bacteria but the wine will risk re-infection at the filling machine, or through stale bottles and poorly stored corks. Due to the short time at a high temperature, this technique may have the least amount of damage to the more delicate flavors and aromas in a wine.

To avoid risks of re-contamination, tunnel pasteurization can be used. In this technique, already bottled wine is passed through a heat tunnel for about 15 minutes where sprays of hot water heat the bottle up to 82°C. All remaining organisms will be killed in the sealed bottle. At the end of the tunnel, the wine is passed through cold sprays to bring the temperature down as quickly as possible. While even more hygienic than flash pasteurization, there is a large amount of expensive equipment to install.

Finally, thermotic or hot bottling makes use of the lowest levels of heat with the longest cooling wine. In this technique, the finished wine is heated to about 54°C, which is below sterilizing temperatures (which is about 82°C for 20 minutes). While at this elevated temperature, the wine is bottled and corked, and then sent to the warehouse to slowly come to room temperature. While the most gentle (in terms of heat exposure), the long time at the elevated temperature will destroy any yeast and bacteria.

Any of the above techniques are best used for higher volume wines (due to the complications of a large recall) but also because some will argue that heat will damage the wine. From a scientific point of view, heat will advance many maturation reactions, so these techniques would be most appropriate for young, large volume wines, there the young wine could benefit from some slight maturation (giving a softer, rounder character). As the wine industry is dominated by global brands in high volumes, understanding the principles and choices of modern bottling techniques are important.

Glamorous sad face

Somms dealing with screwcap complaints

So….again, a topic I was pretty sure I knew a lot about…but these practice essays reveal I don’t have a grasp on examples. I mean, there are a ton of very highly-regarded wineries (even in the old world) who almost exclusively use screwcaps but damned if I could remember one of them.

This was a 30 minute essay. I used about 5 minutes to brainstorm and 21 minutes to write. I didn’t think I would finish in time…

I see closures.

I see closures.

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Do you think customers still react negatively to a screwcap? If a sommelier encounters a customer who reacts negatively to a wine choice based solely on the presence of a screwcap, how should they proceed?

The original screwcaps on wines were introduced in the 1960s and were generally relegated to the cheap jug wine end of the market. Screwcaps are tamper-evident rolled on metal caps that can easily be screwed off of a wine. In the last two decades, screwcaps have stolen market share from traditional corks at all price segments due to its immunity from TCA ‘cork taint’, because of the convenience of not needing an extra tool for screwcap wines, and because of its widespread adoption from high-quality regions like New Zealand and Clare and Eden Valleys in Australia.

While the vast majority of the wine-drinking public has come to accept the screwcap, a sommelier might come up against resistance at higher price points. In any case, if a customer reacts negatively to a screwcap, a sommelier can offer to exchange the wine for something similar, allow for sampling of the wine under screwcap to educate, or if this is not possible, the sommelier can try to win the customer over by discussing the many benefits of wines under screwcap.

Replacing the wine is the first strategy, which can be easily done in areas that use both corks and screwcaps like in the basic Chablis AOC or in many parts of Germany. Other areas that are screwcap-dominant, like New Zealand, the sommelier might have to go to a different region (perhaps a Sancerre to replace a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc).

Allowing for sampling of the wine under screwcap might just be enough to convince a customer that the wine is perfectly fine despite the customer’s negative associations with screwcaps. The other benefit here is due to screwcaps’s ability to keep the wine fresh and free from bottle variation due to different oxygen transmission rates (OTR) as found in corks. Even with more recent technology that allows a winemaker to dial in the OTR on a screwcap, many tastings have proven that wines under screwcap have less oxidation upon opening. If the wine is opened, samples, and still rejected, the fact that the wine is more fresh upon opening gives it a longer ‘shelf life’ and thus a better chance to recover profits by selling the remaining wine in the opened bottle off by the glass. Less initial oxidation means less waste in this case.

Finally there is the traditional educational route for the sommelier to engage with the guest. The benefits of the screwcap include the inherent lack of TCA, meaning less waste again. The tight seal afforded by the screwcap means that the wine is more likely to show exactly as the winemaker intended it to show. The tighter seal and slower OTR makes this the ideal closure for capturing and maintaining delicate and fresh fruit and floral aromas for higher aromatic varieties like Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc (the sommelier need only to point to the success of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc to prove this point). Finally, the screwcap is completely recyclable (though, due to the water used in the creation of screwcaps, might not be the most environmentally-friendly choice).

While attitudes have changed to embrace screwcaps more thoroughly today, sommeliers have several options to proceed if a customer complains of a screwcap wine based solely on its closure. Replacing the wine, sampling the wine or having a discussion about why screwcaps are favored by winemakers could help the sommelier be sure the guests has a wonderful experience with the wine they ultimately choose.